Shock-capturing Boussinesq-type model for nearshore wave processes

Volker Roeber, Kwok Fai Cheung, Marcelo H. Kobayashi

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

107 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

This paper describes the formulation and validation of a nearshore wave model for tropical coastal environment. The governing Boussinesq-type equations include the conservative form of the nonlinear shallow-water equations for shock capturing. A Riemann solver supplies the inter-cell flux and bathymetry source term, while a Godunov-type scheme integrates the evolution variables in time. The model handles wave breaking through momentum conservation with energy dissipation based on an eddy viscosity concept. The computed results show very good agreement with laboratory data for wave propagation over a submerged bar, wave breaking and runup on plane beaches as well as wave transformation over fringing reefs. The model accurately describes transition between supercritical and subcritical flows as well as development of dispersive waves in the processes.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)407-423
Number of pages17
JournalCoastal Engineering
Volume57
Issue number4
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2010 Apr 1

Keywords

  • Boussinesq-type equations
  • Breaking waves
  • Fringing reefs
  • Godunov-type schemes
  • Momentum conservation
  • Nonlinear shallow-water equations

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Environmental Engineering
  • Ocean Engineering

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