TY - JOUR
T1 - Deformation of breaking solitons on gentle slopes
AU - Mano, Akira
AU - Minami, Masato
PY - 1988
Y1 - 1988
N2 - In order to predict wave shape and velocity of breaking solitons on gentle slopes, a momentum equation which includes nonlinear, dispersive and dissipative effects is derived. The Reynolds normal stress is modeled as the dissipative term by introducing eddy viscosity in which the mixing length is chosen as a product of surface elevation and distribution function of turbulence. This model shows good agreements on wave height attenuation, wave shape and velocity of spilling breaker with experimental results. It shows that the coefficient in the eddy viscosity is sensitive to the attenuation and the distribution function has roles in the initial phase of the breaking and in distinguishing breaker and nonbreaker.
AB - In order to predict wave shape and velocity of breaking solitons on gentle slopes, a momentum equation which includes nonlinear, dispersive and dissipative effects is derived. The Reynolds normal stress is modeled as the dissipative term by introducing eddy viscosity in which the mixing length is chosen as a product of surface elevation and distribution function of turbulence. This model shows good agreements on wave height attenuation, wave shape and velocity of spilling breaker with experimental results. It shows that the coefficient in the eddy viscosity is sensitive to the attenuation and the distribution function has roles in the initial phase of the breaking and in distinguishing breaker and nonbreaker.
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U2 - 10.2208/jscej.1988.399_213
DO - 10.2208/jscej.1988.399_213
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:0024105852
SP - 213
EP - 220
JO - Doboku Gakkai Rombun-Hokokushu/Proceedings of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers
JF - Doboku Gakkai Rombun-Hokokushu/Proceedings of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers
SN - 0385-5392
IS - 399 pt 2-10
ER -