In order to predict wave shape and velocity of breaking solitons on gentle slopes, a momentum equation which includes nonlinear, dispersive and dissipative effects is derived. The Reynolds normal stress is modeled as the dissipative term by introducing eddy viscosity in which the mixing length is chosen as a product of surface elevation and distribution function of turbulence. This model shows good agreements on wave height attenuation, wave shape and velocity of spilling breaker with experimental results. It shows that the coefficient in the eddy viscosity is sensitive to the attenuation and the distribution function has roles in the initial phase of the breaking and in distinguishing breaker and nonbreaker.
|Number of pages||8|
|Journal||Doboku Gakkai Rombun-Hokokushu/Proceedings of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers|
|Issue number||399 pt 2-10|
|Publication status||Published - 1988|
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